Sustainability in fashion isn’t just about buying less—it’s also about being mindful of the fabrics we wear. But what exactly makes a fabric eco-friendly? Which materials should we be choosing to lessen our environmental impact? Let’s explore the answers to some of the most common questions about fabrics and their sustainability, so you can be a more informed and ethical shopper!
What Is Polyester Made From?
Polyester is a synthetic fabric made from petrochemicals, primarily polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Essentially, polyester is plastic, and it’s derived from oil, making it far from eco-friendly. The production process is energy-intensive, and the fabric itself sheds microplastics when washed, which enter our water systems and harm marine life. While recycled polyester is a slightly better option, it’s still made from plastic and continues to contribute to microplastic pollution.
What Types of Fabric Use Plastic?
Many synthetic fabrics are made from plastic-based materials. Some of the most common include:
- Polyester (as mentioned above)
- Nylon, often used in activewear and outerwear
- Acrylic, found in sweaters and fleece
- Spandex/Elastane, which adds stretch to clothing
These fabrics are all derived from petrochemicals and come with environmental concerns like a heavy carbon footprint, microplastic shedding, and the non-biodegradable nature of plastic.
What Are the Most Eco-Friendly Fabrics?
Choosing eco-friendly fabrics can significantly reduce your wardrobe's impact on the environment. Here are some of the best options:
Organic Cotton: Grown without harmful pesticides, organic cotton is a more sustainable option than conventional cotton. It uses less water and promotes healthier soil.
Hemp: Hemp is a highly sustainable fabric. It grows quickly, requires minimal water, and enriches the soil it's grown in. Plus, it's durable and biodegradable.
Linen: Made from the flax plant, linen is another eco-friendly choice. It's biodegradable, requires little water to grow, and can be produced without harsh chemicals.
Lyocell: This fabric, often found under the brand name Tencel, is made from eucalyptus wood pulp, typically sourced from sustainable tree farms. The production process is a closed-loop, meaning nearly all chemicals used are recycled, and it’s biodegradable. Viscose rayon (under the brand name Modal) is a similar type of fabric but can be less eco-friendly due to the toxic chemicals used in its production.
Recycled Fabrics: Fabrics like recycled polyester or nylon repurpose existing plastic, reducing the need for new raw materials. While these still pose some sustainability challenges, they are a better option than their virgin counterparts.
Are Recycled Fabrics Truly Sustainable?
Recycled fabrics, like recycled polyester or nylon, repurpose existing plastic waste, which reduces the need for new raw materials. It also keeps these pieces of plastic from taking up landfill space. However, while they help reduce landfill and ocean pollution, they still pose environmental concerns like microplastic shedding. They are a better choice than virgin materials but not a perfect solution.
Is Cotton Sustainable?
Cotton seems like an obviously eco-friendly choice because of its natural origins, however, there’s more to the cotton story. Conventional cotton can be problematic. While it’s a natural fiber, it’s one of the most water-intensive crops and often relies on heavy pesticide use, which harms soil and surrounding ecosystems. Organic cotton is a much more sustainable choice. It avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, uses less water, and helps maintain healthy soil. While it still requires resources, choosing organic cotton is a step toward a more eco-friendly wardrobe.
What Fabrics Should I Avoid for a Sustainable Wardrobe?
If you’re looking to reduce your environmental impact, it’s best to avoid:
- Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, and Spandex: These synthetics are derived from plastic and contribute to microplastic pollution.
- Conventional Cotton: Due to its high water usage and pesticide reliance, conventional cotton can be harmful to the environment.
How Do Animal-Derived Fabrics Like Wool and Silk Fit Into Sustainability?
Like many parts of the fashion and textile industries, animal-derived fabrics need to be examined closely to determine whether they meet your individual criteria for being sustainable and eco-friendly. While some animal fabrics may biodegrade for instance, they may involve sourcing practices which harm or kill the source animals. Ultimately you have to weigh what works best for your goals and values when making your textile choices.
Wool can be sustainable when sourced responsibly. It’s renewable, biodegradable, and long-lasting. However, large-scale industrial farming of sheep can lead to land degradation and overgrazing. Conventional wool often involves practices which mutilate or shorten the lifespan of wool-producing sheep. Look for certifications like “Responsible Wool Standard” to ensure ethical treatment of animals and sustainable practices.
Silk, while natural and biodegradable, can have an ethical and environmental cost due to the energy-intensive farming and production processes. It takes around 1,000 silk worms, which are boiled in their cocoons and killed, to make one shirt. Peace silk, where the silkworms are not killed during the production process, is a more ethical alternative but often significantly harder to find.
Leather and suede are common textiles derived from the hides of cows. About 95% of leather is sourced from beef cattle and is a by-product, meaning most cows are being killed for their meat, not their leather. Although leather is biodegradable, beef cattle have a heavy carbon footprint due to deforestation, water consumption and their gas emissions. Vegan leather is a type of faux leather which might seem like a better alternative, however it is typically made using fossil fuels, including polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). That means it carries a big carbon footprint and releases several toxic chemicals.
Is Food Waste Being Turned into Fabric?
As you’re probably aware, food waste is a major contributor to landfill space. Did you know however that the textile industry is actually spearheading innovative efforts to divert some that waste out of the waste stream to use it as a source for fabric production?
Piñatex is an emerging alternative to leather that’s actually made from pineapple leaves. Developed by Spanish textile research Dr. Carmen Hijosa, over many years, it’s sustainably sourced, doesn't use the toxic chemicals of traditional leather and consumes far less water in its production. Today you can find it being used by over a thousand brands from Hugo Boss to H&M and Zara for shoes, accessories, and upholstery.
Orange Fiber is another fabric being derived from food waste. Imagine all of the tons of orange peels and pulp leftovers by the production of orange juice. This food waste is now being reimagined and transformed into a silky, biodegradable fabric perfect for use in lightweight garments where traditional silk might be used. It may be hard to envision, but all those tough orange skins can actually turn into a soft, flowy fabric that can be made into gorgeous blouses and dresses.
Beyond these two examples, other food waste fabrics are entering the market, such as apple leather and grape skin fibers, with an increasing number of designers experimenting with these materials. They are not just limited to luxury brands—many smaller, eco-conscious labels are incorporating these textiles into their collections, bringing sustainable options to a broader audience.
From fungi and bananas to mangos, apples, cacti, and even coffee grounds(!) there are many brands finding innovative ways to use food products that usually just head to a landfill. Not only does this make for exciting options for consumers looking for more eco-friendly fabrics, but it also should become a big component in efforts to reduce food waste.
What Is Bamboo Fabric, and Is It Sustainable?
Bamboo fabric is often marketed as eco-friendly, but it’s important to differentiate between types. Bamboo linen, which is mechanically processed, is a sustainable option, but bamboo rayon (viscose) goes through a chemical-heavy process that can be harmful to the environment. If you choose bamboo, look for certifications that ensure responsible production methods.
Sustainable Fabric Choices for Every Wardrobe Component
What Are the Most Sustainable Fabrics for Athleisure?
As a society, we’ve grown to love the stretch and moisture-wicking features of athletic wear. However, athleisure often relies on synthetic materials like polyester, nylon, and spandex, which aren’t eco-friendly. More sustainable options to look out for are recycled polyester, Tencel, and organic cotton blends. Look for brands that focus on eco-friendly fabrics and avoid virgin plastics.
How Can I Make My Underwear More Sustainable?
Underwear is typically made from cotton or synthetic blends, but there are more sustainable options available. Organic cotton, bamboo (mechanically processed), and hemp are great alternatives that are gentle on the skin and the planet.
What Are Sustainable Fabrics for Outerwear?
Outerwear often includes materials like nylon, polyester, or down, which can be environmentally harmful. Sustainable alternatives include recycled polyester, eco-down (synthetic down made from recycled materials), and organic cotton canvas. Also, look for waterproofing treatments that are free of harmful chemicals like PFCs (perfluorocarbons).
How Can I Find Sustainable Waterproof Fabrics for Outerwear?
Many waterproof fabrics use chemical coatings like PFCs, which are harmful to the environment. Instead, look for outerwear brands that use PFC-free waterproofing technology. Fabrics like organic cotton canvas treated with natural waxes or recycled polyester with eco-friendly coatings are better options.
How Can I Make My Wardrobe More Sustainable?
As you can see, it can be a bit of a nuanced process to choose the most sustainable fabrics. But, there are some straightforward steps you can take to make your wardrobe more eco-friendly. Remember, little steps can add up to big improvements in our environment!
- Repair rather than replace: Extend the life of your clothes by mending small tears or missing buttons.
- Use a lint trap: Add filters in your washing machine and onto the water discharge hose to catch microplastics from synthetic fabrics.
- Choose quality over quantity: Invest in well-made clothes that last longer.
- Buy second-hand: Thrifting and buying used reduces demand for new resources.
- Choose eco-friendly fabrics: Look for labels like organic cotton, hemp, or Tencel.
- Wash less, wash smarter: Washing clothes less frequently and in colder water reduces energy use and wear on your garments.
Choosing eco-friendly fabrics is one part of building a sustainable wardrobe, but it’s just as important to think about how we care for and maintain our clothes. By being mindful of fabric choices and adopting sustainable practices, we can all reduce the impact our wardrobes have on the planet.
Start today! Explore small, sustainable changes you can make and help protect the environment one outfit at a time. Your actions matter—let's create a more eco-friendly wardrobe together!
Have any eco-friendly wardrobe tips of your own? We’d love to hear them! Share your thoughts and ideas in the comments below!
Photo by KATRIN BOLOVTSOVA: https://www.pexels.com/photo/folded-clothes-on-brown-wooden-table-7445133/
Photo by Katrin Bolovtsova on Pexels.